Brown Shoes vs Black Shoes: The Complete Guide

Choosing between brown and black shoes might seem like a small decision, but it can make or break an outfit. The right colour elevates your look and shows attention to detail. The wrong choice can make even an expensive suit look mismatched.

The good news is that the old rigid rules have relaxed considerably. While your grandfather might have insisted on black shoes for everything formal, modern style offers much more flexibility. At London Brogues, we make both brown and black shoes across our entire range, and we see customers successfully wearing both in situations that would have raised eyebrows a generation ago.

That said, there are still guidelines worth following. Here is everything you need to know about choosing between brown and black shoes.

The Formality Spectrum

The fundamental rule still holds: black is more formal than brown. This does not mean brown is casual, but when maximum formality is required, black remains the safest choice.

For truly formal occasions, particularly evening events and funerals, black patent or highly polished black leather remains the standard. Our Albert patent leather brogues are designed exactly for these moments.

Matching Shoes to Suits

This is where most people get confused. Different suit colours work better with different shoe colours. Here are the combinations that work:

Navy suits: This is where brown shoes really shine. Tan, cognac and mid brown all look excellent with navy. Black works too but can feel quite severe. If you own one brown pair and one black pair, wear the brown with navy nine times out of ten.

Grey suits: Both brown and black work well with grey. Lighter grey suits pair beautifully with tan shoes for a contemporary look. Charcoal grey looks sharp with black for formal settings or dark brown for everyday wear.

Black suits: Stick with black shoes. Brown and black together rarely works, and a black suit demands the formality of matching shoes. This is not a rule worth breaking.

Blue suits: Similar to navy, brown shoes are generally the better choice. The warmth of brown leather complements blue fabric beautifully.

Beige and tan suits: Brown shoes are essential here. Black would clash badly with these lighter, warmer tones.

Occasion Rules

Beyond suit colour, the occasion itself should guide your choice:

Weddings: Check the dress code. Black tie means black shoes. For most daytime weddings, brown shoes are not only acceptable but often preferred, especially with blue or grey suits. Our wedding collection includes options in both colours.

Funerals: Black is the respectful choice. This is one situation where fashion takes a back seat to tradition and showing respect.

Job interviews: Consider the industry. Finance, law and corporate roles often expect black shoes with a dark suit. Creative industries and startups are usually fine with brown. When in doubt, black is the safer option.

Office wear: Know your workplace culture. Many modern offices have no preference. Traditional industries still lean towards black for client meetings.

The Modern Rule: Match Your Belt

One rule that has not changed is belt matching. Your belt should match your shoes:

• Black shoes require a black belt

• Brown shoes require a brown belt in a similar shade

• The match does not need to be exact, but should be in the same colour family

• This rule applies less strictly with casual outfits and no belt

This is why we recommend owning at least one pair of quality shoes in each colour. You will find yourself reaching for both regularly.

Shades of Brown: What Works When

Not all brown shoes are equal. The shade matters:

Tan and light brown: More casual and versatile. Perfect for summer, lighter suits and smart casual settings. Our tan brogues collection offers plenty of options in this shade.

Mid brown and cognac: The sweet spot for most occasions. Formal enough for business but warm enough to feel approachable. Works year round with most suit colours.

Dark brown and oxblood: Almost as formal as black but with more character. Excellent for business settings where you want to stand out slightly while remaining professional.

Building Your Shoe Collection

If you are building a shoe collection from scratch, here is the order we recommend:

1. A pair of black Oxfords or brogues for formal occasions

2. A pair of mid brown or tan brogues for everyday smart wear

3. Brown Chelsea boots for casual versatility

4. Additional colours and styles based on your wardrobe and lifestyle

With just a black pair and a brown pair, you can handle virtually any situation. From there, you can expand into different shades and styles as your wardrobe grows.

When Rules Can Be Broken

Fashion has become more relaxed, and some old rules no longer apply strictly:

• Brown shoes with grey suits are now completely mainstream

• Lighter brown shoes in business settings are widely accepted

• Two tone spectator shoes can work in situations that once demanded solid colours

• Smart casual events rarely require any specific shoe colour

The key is understanding the context. A creative agency will have different expectations than a law firm. A summer garden wedding is not the same as an evening gala. Read the room and dress accordingly.

Browse our full collection of men's shoes to find the perfect pair in black, brown, tan or any shade in between. Whether you need formal Oxfords or versatile brogues, we have options to cover every occasion.